The Island of Nólsoy

Ever since we have arrived in Tórshavn I have been looking out of the window at the island of NólsOy. The northern tip of the island is pasture, much like moorland, and it is separated from the larger part by an isthmus where the village of Nolsoy is. The southern part rises sharply with coastal cliffs leading to boulder strewn slopes that are the base of the higher cliffs. The sight of all of it is both fascinating and beautiful. The village has a cosy feel to it and everyone is friendly and polite.

The ferries are regular and ply back and forth with a minimal amount of time in either harbour. It takes less than thirty minutes and for each crossing the sea was calm. Going out we were in summer with clear skies and only a breeze. Today on our return it was persisting down and in the afternoon the wind has increased. It is typical Faroese weather I am told. Now as I look out the island has disappeared into the cloud and rain.

On our outward trip, in the harbour, was a Northern Diver which had only arrived recently and confirmed by Kjeld. A first for me and a bird that I have been wanting to see for most of my life.
Success at last and so easy.

As soon as we arrived I was introduced to Jens Kjeld Jensen. A man of birding knowledge and our guide for our midnight stroll up the mountain. We chatted and he told me what I wanted to know. I followed his instructions and walked towards the moorland area. Within five minutes I could see and hear the Arctic Tern colony. They were flying across this narrow part of the island to fish in the sea on either side. They passed within a few metres of my head. My other quest was to find the two pairs of breeding Whimbrel. I had to work at it and eventually I could hear them and then one flew. It landed in full view and on the track beside it was a female Northern Wheatear. I watched the Whimbrel for thirty minutes and standing in full sun without a fleece! It flew and landed in the larger southern part.

When walking back I passed the Tern colony again and found two more female Wheatears, although one at least could have been a juvenile with an adult male in attendance. What a great afternoon.

We met Kjeld about an hour before midnight. He seems to be a man of considerable talent and he has an exhibition of stuffed birds that he uses to acquainted people with the various species including children. We then left for the nesting site of Storm Petrels having held a stuffed one in my hand. They are so small and the sea journeys that this very small bird makes astounds me. Photographs will appear later.

As we climbed towards an area of boulders. Whimbrel called and flew. A Mountain Hare ran. The ubiquitous Oyster Catchers flew and called as well. Then we could hear the chicks calling from holes under rocks and the mist net was erected. We had to be patient for Storm Petrels only will come to their nests when light is poor and preferably in darkness. We had a clear sky to start with and then we had cloud cover. It was not until about one that we started to see these fast flying birds. Then the net did its job and eight birds were ringed, all of them for the first time. It is not until you hold this bird in the hand that you realize how dainty it is. It was a great experience.

Other wildlife was scarce, but a Common Snipe called and I heard and saw Raven. Apparently there are two pairs there with one specializing in a Fulmar diet. Local knowledge reigns supreme.

It was not easy and the walking was uneven and hard on the legs. Patience was needed, but a great reward in seeing another first for me. Again a privilege to be there and to having done it.