Sunday 29 July 2012

TOCKWITH AND THE FAMILY

Now for a few days with family at Tockwith set amongst some of Yorkshires finest farmland. This area is pretty much level with the River Nidd running through, bushy hedgerows and some great trees all nearby. It is England’s trees that we miss most.

On the property was a giant of an oak tree which it was said was over 500 years old and I will say that it could tell a tale or two. According to local information underneath its branches there was a field hospital which had been set up to deal with some of the wounded from the battlefield of Marston Moor fought in 1644 which was just down the road. The Royalist Army were defeated with 4000 dead and The Parliamentarians under Cromwell losing a only a few hundred. I wonder if that old oak can remember the dying sounds of the wounded from an age that defied divine rule and split families. Religion or an individual’s concept of it has destroyed many lives. Maybe there is a poem there somewhere.

These few days went quickly with no time to write or email (the signal was poor) but that was not the object as it was an important time for us. We had days out at Ripon, Skipton with its castle still complete and a day spent between Pickering and Grosmont on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. We will do the Whitby end this week to get some more steam, smoke, nostalgia and photographs. Here, there was more beautiful scenery with sun instead of rain. My grandchildfren had their first experience of the power of steam and how it used to be. Another good day out.

At Tockwith we had the farmland birds with our first view of Tree Sparrows for a while, Yellow Hammer again, Greater Spotted Woodpeckers and on two occasions Greylag Geese flying overhead. Tawny and Barn owls live here but we only heard them. The star was the continual singing of the Song Thrush. Now we are at Boggle Hole we are surrounded by House Sparrows, Dunnock, Blackbirds with a pair of Greater-spotted Woodpeckers. It is good to be among farmland with its wildlilfe again.

Monday 23 July 2012

IMPRESSIONS OF HARROGATE FESTIVAL

This was our first visit to Yorkshire with the triple aims of birding, literature and family (I wonder if this is the right order?) with the 8th Theakstons Old Peculier Crime Writing Festival our only goal for 19th to 22nd July – to enjoy the criminal intent, to see how the writers shape up in a public forum.

The sole venue was the Old Swan Hotel famed for where Agatha Christie was found after she went on her own journey away from domestic un-bliss and booked in using the name of her husband’s girlfriend – there’s imagination for you! We enjoyed our stay but the hotel must have been much grander in years gone by.

A well organised event ran to a strict time line with all the guests and chaired panels acquitting themselves well. The opening and award for the crime novel of the year went smoothly with the oil being added by a ‘free’ pint of Theakstons ‘Crime of Passion’ ale, it being sweetened with almonds just like the smell of cyanide on a corpse. I wonder if the brewer is still alive! However, from the short list of six, Denise Mina won with The End of The Wasp Season, she made a brilliant acceptance speech so we bought it together with £200 worth of other books. What a cheap week-end!

We enjoyed it all, heard some great writers, met some lovely people and had our writer/book horizon expanded.

High and lows were Ian Rankin with Peter Robinson being disappointing for me and their session could be re-labelled ‘Two Grumpy Old Men having a Chat over a Beer’ although I suspect that they could have done a lot better. There were many other sessions that were excellent such as John Connolly (you can’t keep the Celts out of it), Peter James and Kate Mosse. There was some smooth work done Mark Lawson and Barry Forshaw who were impressive. Mark Billingham and his committee all deserve accolades for creating the programme. A bloody could show – well done.
For next year start looking at www.harrogateinternationalfestivals.com why don’t you?

Saturday 21 July 2012

BIRDING, BEER, MORE BIRDING THEN TO THE LITERATI AT HARROGATE

We had four phases to our last day in Northumberland and then onto Harrogate but the previous evening, it was most interesting.

We had had a quiet morning to prepare ourselves for the next part of the journey but decided to visit Low Newton again later. It was a damp sort of evening with rain beginning to settle in.
The Ship Pub & Brewery had impressed us a few days before, since they brewed on the premises we decided to go back and to sample some more of their brews. Not only the beer was enjoyable but the company that we encountered was not only that but informative as well.

The place was packed with people eating at all the tables. We took our pints outside and spoke to a couple from Leicestershire who were into birding and photography. They said that within half a mile of where we were staying was a colony of terns at Long Nanny Burn.

The rain increased so we moved back to the bar. Standing there were two guys that we now know as Andy from Falmouth and Geoff from Bristol. They were on the southern leg of Kayaking around Britain and having started from Falmouth they were on their way home. What an adventure that must be and we gave them full credit for even thinking about doing it let alone giving it a go. They were stocking up on calories as they had only emergency food with them and a tent to protect them from the wonderful wet summer. They said that they had to shelter for 14 days in total with three of the days being consecutive.

I remarked that the wildlife would be wonderful as they would be so close to it being only inches above the water. I think that their best encounters were with three groups of sea otters on the west coast of Scotland and also eagles. Great stuff for they have our respect and we hope that they have a safe onward voyage.

You see, it pays to go for a beer even if the only excuse is to do research and get something to write about. Even Prince Charles is going there next Tuesday when he visits the region to support small businesses. I say ‘good for him’

The following morning we visited the tern colony, saw Common Terns in flight and managed to get a shot on camera. It is a protected RSPB site which can be ‘googled’ for more information.

Next, came a visit to The Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre at Washington, right on the banks of the River Weare in Sunderland. This is a relatively small site but with some great community activity as well as ancient woodland, wet areas and fresh water ponds. We had great views of Lapwing, Shovellers, Redshank and Heron. The wintering birds had still to arrive which will increase the population significantly. The small birds are there but we had not sufficient time to find them and these would have included Bullfinch, Lesser Whitethroat, Sedge and other warblers. I did however see one Willow Warbler. I would love to spend a day there.

Afterwards, we continued to Harrogate for the tenth Theakston’s Old Peculier Crime Writing Festival

The opening event was about an hour and a half long with Mark Billingham and Simon Theakston giving funny and articulate performances only to be seriously out done by Colin Dexter who received a life time achievement award for his creation of Morse. His characters, his books and the TV series had endeared him to all of us. Now over eighty he was able to deliver his acceptance speech with humour and dignity. It was for both of us a truly great and emotional moment. It was good to be there and we would not have wanted to miss it.

Wednesday 18 July 2012

LINDISFARNE AND LOW NEWTON

Monday 22nd July was reserved for a morning on Lindisfarne – a Natural England Reserve – which is a massive area for which many species depend upon for both breeding and, more importantly for overwintering. We investigated the island for a further visit as we could not spare enough time to see all that we wanted to see.

On the way we stopped at the end of the causeway to see what was flying. We were rewarded with a male Reed Bunting, a Yellow Wagtail and Linnets in the corn. However, upon leaving we stopped to look over Budle Bay at Warren Mill and watched the incoming tide bring the birds closer to us. There were almost fifty Swans, several Curlew and then twenty Redshank flew in.

We moved on to Seahouses discovered ‘The Olde Ship’ relaxed for a while and then we returned to our accommodation and walked just inland of the dunes to see what grassland birds were around. It was wonderful walking through uncut grasses and colourful flowers. I don’t know whether this will be cut but I suspect that the very wet weather has prevented it so far. However it was a joy to walk amongst it all and while we were doing this, two groups of Curlew flew over us numbering one hundred. Birding sources have already mentioned that some of the northern nesting birds have already arrived in their winter quarters. We wondered if that was the case with these birds. We saw linnet flying, watched a perched reed bunting, an immature Northern Wheatear, and what we believed were meadow pipits – photographs have still to be viewed closely – and then we saw our first English Partridge scurrying about in a paddock of horses.

Sadly butterflies were almost absent and the two we saw we did not recognise – we will check up later.

Summing the day up is easy. It was not as good as we had hoped but nevertheless we saw some birds. Basically it was birds and booze especially when I remember ‘The Ship Inn Pub & Brewery’ at Low Newton where they brew their own. You can look them up on www.shipinnnewton.co.uk
We thoroughly recommend this location as it is perfect to sit in peace and quiet, watch the ocean and sip.

Monday 16 July 2012

COQUET ISLAND

This Sunday morning found us in need of a few quiet hours so that we could catch up with ourselves.
An enjoyable breakfast and then a few emails and to bring the blog smack bang up-to date.

We had booked a 1pm boat ride with Dave Grey’s Puffin Cruises from the harbour at Amble. The weather was kind, the sea calm with some cloud. The goal was to see Roseate Terns on Coquet Island (an RSPB site) which is one of the few places that they breed. We knew that we were unable to land and so all our watching was from the boat. It was not easy to view them as we had to pick them out from the other terns that also inhabit this rocky island just a short distance off the mainland. However Michelle managed to capture them digitally and we were able to identify them flying.

This trip we had been very enthusiastic about as Coquet does have a good ‘facebook site with some very good photographs exhibited on it. It did not match up yesterday but at least we have seen all four types of tern that breed in Northumberland.

Then we had a quick visit to the ‘Poison Garden’(with one of the worst guides ever), did a bit of the ‘Woodland Walk’ at Alnwick followed by a quick pint and then ‘home’ for dinner with Countryfile.

Sunday 15 July 2012

THE FARNES

This was the purpose of the trip which was to see the Puffins. Madam was not disappointed for how could she be with thousands in the sea, flying over it, flying over us and underneath our feet. There is much more to say for this was an amazing day.

We left the harbour at Seahouses aboard The Glad Tidings to head out towards The Farne Islands. There was plenty to see with Terns, Shags, Puffins and Gannets all around us. We were unable to land on Staples but we ‘ hove to’ alongside cliffs of sheer rock covered in a white dressing – you could smell it too. The rocks were covered with Guillemots and every niche had a Kittiwake clinging to it – telling us their name constantly. There were still a few Razorbills that had delayed their departure just for us with the occasional Fulmar showing.

Grey/Atlantic Seals were plentiful and they are good fun to watch. Thankfully, there is a good population of them here.

We were able to land on Inner Farne. Arctic Terns were everywhere mostly within feet of us and not shy to show there annoyance at the intruders. Intrusion of the human kind you may think would seriously affect them but the alternative is true. It may be that us humans give protection and reduce predation which was what the breeding results show.

There was also a colony of Sandwich Terns with a smaller number of Common Tern also breeding on this rocky island.

For Michelle, she came for ‘The Puffins’ and she saw thousands and did her best to get some good shots. They fly fast and furious and to capture one in flight is difficult. She did very well but you will have to wait to see her results. We did get close up and personal when one of the wardens showed us one that he had caught. They are beautiful, amazing and funny birds. What a privilege to see so many in a small area.

For me, being that close to so many seabirds, was a great experience. It was a good learning day.

We returned to harbour on a sea that was as though it was a slightly ruffled cloth of silk shining under a re-emerging summer sun. A roadside pub beckoned which quenched our thirst and gave time to reflect on another good day.

Thursday 12 July 2012

TICKETS TO RIDE FOR BEER AND BRASS

Enthusiasm and friendliness is what you get when you take a trip on The Bluebell Railway.

We found this out when we entered the station at Horsted Keynes last Saturday evening to take a ride with nostalgia. We were greeted on the platform by smiling staff and throughout the evening the service was excellent. We all had a great time.

Robbie and Neal, long-time friends who live in Hove are frequent visitors to this line with Neal playing the enthusiasts part. It was he who had booked our tickets along with two friends, Amanda and Pete (alias ‘Pooks’). I was pleased to see that they were all serious drinkers which did mean that all the ale on offer was quaffed with an enthusiastic air.

For Michelle and I visiting England after 6 years in Spain to see the results of peoples’ endeavour to keep our railway history up and running was a real joy. To smell the steam, hear the toot of the whistle and hear that explosion of escaping smoke was a wonderful experience. To stand alongside one of these snorting beasts was a reminder of the power of steam and how it changed the world. To sit in one of these carriages where you can feel the history of transport and touch it.

The station buildings, platforms and all with herbaceous borders are real reminders to show how people used to care, to take a pride in what they did and I know that there are real people who still do all of that.

The Horsham Borough Brass Band added that extra bit of finesse to the evening playing under the platform canopy while the rain beat its own tune.

ON THE SOUTH COAST

We had done our homework and we knew that Selsey Bill and Bracklesham Bay would allow us to watch gulls, terns and maybe some waders with the former site being more important during the migratory months.

CHURCH NORTON (Grid reference SZ 872 958 ) is located on the edge of Pagham Harbour and is an interesting location having mature trees and a tidal marsh with shingle banks. Singing over head was a Song Thrush and on a tree opposite was a male Green Woodpecker. Looking over the marsh we could see Black-tailed Godwit with Curlew showing well and calling. Oystercatchers were easily evident and nesting with Greenshank and Redshank feeding in the mud. We saw one Sandwich Tern with numerous Black-Headed and Herring Gulls doing their own noisy thing. Both Heron and Little Egret were seen but with weather and time against us we felt that there was much more to see on a return visit.

We then visited The RSPB Reserve which is located on the Selsey/Chichester road and is sign posted. Persistent rain drove us into a hide which overlooked a lake which provided very good views of various waders, including Lapwing and a Little Gull. Leaving the hide we saw and photographed a White Throat.

The above locations are important sites and we would recommend the latter two. The Wildfowl & Wetland Centre at Arundel is a must. There are many ducks and geese to observe but our aim was to see the Water Vole. We visited this site on both days and saw voles on each of them and more than once on each boat ride. We sat within feet of them while they chewed away. They are just great to see.

Our other stars were Sedge Warblers and a Reed Warbler rattling away in the reed outside reception. Peregine Falcons also obliged on both occasions and we watched a perched one drying himself out after rain. We just needed more time.

ON THE FERRY GOING OVER

We left Bilbao on the 8.30 ferry to Portsmouth arriving at the same hour on Tuesday 4th July. The wind was light and the temperature was around 23C. It’s all so easy it certainly is much better than the constant waiting at airports. There is not that much to say but it is relaxing with no need to rush around.

Birds and marine life were very disappointing to start with but we soon had three separate sightings of dolphin. The ‘ORCA’ representative on board soon enlightened us and I can now tell whether it is a common dolphin or not. I later stood with him on the upper deck and saw clearly the markings of this species. Birding was slow but then there were (possibly) either Cory’s or Sooty Shearwaters skimming the waves. I may be able to tell the difference one day! Then there were immature Gannets flying overhead. I know that they are not adult because the book says so and the older ones are too busy parenting – it’s that time of year. No bloody whales though – princely or otherwise.

Monday 2 July 2012

1st July.
The wind was blowing hard when we awoke just like the previous evening. It was therefore a quick break fast , then head north to see what we could see on our way to Bilbao. We travelled through more corn fields with luxuriant green deciduous forests lining the hillsides. Griffon Vultures, our first on this trip, were circling overhead.
Our first destination was within 5km of the Basque capital Vitoria-Gasteiz. Here there are the Salburúa Wetlands with 203 hectares of forest, marsh and water all teeming with wildlife. There are listed walks and hides that actually overlook water! Nesting White Storks were in abundance, a heronry was in the trees opposite, waterfowl with young were swimming about which included both geese and coot. We did not have time to stay too long but together with information gleaned on our arrival in Bilbao there has to be a return visit either in winter or during a migration for there is so much to see and do in País Vasco/Euskadi.
A hotel brochure lists The Mendijur Ornothologica Park as well as coastal sites. From now on we will be looking for seabirds and once on the ferry on Tuesday morning we will look for any marine life. Let’s hope the weather is good.