Elly Griffiths' Smoke and Mirrors drew me in because of the theatrical aspects and because I thought I should read one of her 'Stephens and Mephisto Mysteries'. I was curious as to what her four books with the unusual pairing of the two of them would reveal to me. I was not to be disappointed as I was easily able to relate to Edgar Stephens and later on to Max Mephisto, a magician. It may seem to be a rather odd combination, but it works adding another dimension. I read this one because she is the chair of The Theakston's Crime Writing Festival this coming July and that is why I had also read the first book in the Ruth Galloway series. We will look forward to meeting her in Harrogate.
Now back to this story. Two children go missing on a cold winter's evening with snow falling. The Devil's Dyke will soon be all white and that sets the scene and time.
But it opens with a murder in a theatre in 1912, and then the main event is set in Brighton, in the winter of 1951, as the backdrop. The murder of a child actor then and the connection between this story years later adds more to the mystery. The images created with the falling snow and the worry over where the kids are allows the tension to mount; time moves on slowly and of course the technology of that post war period is not so instantaneous as now. The children, the ability of Annie - a character thar this story revolves around - to create her own drama and her relationship with her younger friends and her teacher draw the reader into another world. A world of fairly tales and make believe. Of course there are other characters that our interest is drawn to because there has to be some smoke with the mirrors. I compliment the author in setting this story in 1951 and dealing with life as it once was.
Then there is the magic of Max Mephisto and the knowledge that he must fit into this story somewhere. It is a very enjoyable read with enough intrigue to keep the interest. I always want to rail against the inference that a police officer has to look 'gormless' and that the lowly 'plods' always need intelligent help, but for the period it fits well. Other characters, of course, have to be enhanced because the main players have to at least sound good.
Wednesday, 29 March 2017
Monday, 27 March 2017
MY THANKS TO WILD POLAND
WILD POLAND 18 - 25th March 2017 with
Andrzej Petryna for Early Spring Madness
Superlatives roll off the tongue for this trip.
Excellent, amazing and extremely well organized
will have to suffice. We had good views of so much
wildlife with great birds and terrific mammals.
The forest with immense trees, the Biebrza Marsh
and flooded fields will stay long in the memory.
Andrzej is a star. Considerate to all and coupled
with a terrific sense of humour. He has superb
knowledge and he worked hard for us. Our
journeys were safely driven.
John & Michelle Edwards 26th March 2017.
Andrzej Petryna for Early Spring Madness
Superlatives roll off the tongue for this trip.
Excellent, amazing and extremely well organized
will have to suffice. We had good views of so much
wildlife with great birds and terrific mammals.
The forest with immense trees, the Biebrza Marsh
and flooded fields will stay long in the memory.
Andrzej is a star. Considerate to all and coupled
with a terrific sense of humour. He has superb
knowledge and he worked hard for us. Our
journeys were safely driven.
John & Michelle Edwards 26th March 2017.
Saturday, 25 March 2017
THE BULLS ARE MARCHING UPWARDS
I blogged about the demise of HEREFORD UNITED. Last season saw them gain promotion after being reformed as HEREFORD FC and twenty thousand of us went to Wembley for the FA Vase Final. Now today sitting in a bar in Warsaw with a drink in my hand they win four nil at Salisbury and they are champions for the second season running. Now promotion to a higher league. Another fantastic season for my home town football team
FINAL MOMENTS IN BIEBRZA MARSH
ANOTHER EARLY START IN DOBARZ HOTEL
On Saturday morning the birding was still not over. We arose at 5.3am and were out of the door by 6.30. It was a very good choice as both Tree Sparrow and Linnet were around. A Wood Lark called and flew and a Crossbill did the same and all viewed clearly. We moved on a few paces and there were two White Tailed Eagles perched in a tree. All in the scope and with maximum magnification. We viewed them again from another angle and when they flew we could see the white tails. On a stream were a pair of Golden Eye giving a good view. Two Cranes were in the field and two more flew over. A White Wagtail perched nearby and both Chaffinch and Yellow Hammer were feeding on the edge of a field. It was a cold morning with a chill breeze and then as we moved back to the hotel in the distance we could see four Red Deer does moving along the field edge and into the forest. A Redwing was seen by others.
After another excellent meal we set off for Warsaw with a journey time of three hours. Within minutes an adult female Elk was grazing with in metres of the road and that made the photographers very happy. Now we had to say goodbye to the marsh. The ride was uneventful and there was not one White Stork to be seen - it is a bit early and spring is arriving late.
We did look for the Syrian Woodpecker - similar to GS Woodpecker - without any sightings.
What a wonderful two weeks seeing Warsaw, meeting other like minded people, watching the wildlife and having fun too.
On Saturday morning the birding was still not over. We arose at 5.3am and were out of the door by 6.30. It was a very good choice as both Tree Sparrow and Linnet were around. A Wood Lark called and flew and a Crossbill did the same and all viewed clearly. We moved on a few paces and there were two White Tailed Eagles perched in a tree. All in the scope and with maximum magnification. We viewed them again from another angle and when they flew we could see the white tails. On a stream were a pair of Golden Eye giving a good view. Two Cranes were in the field and two more flew over. A White Wagtail perched nearby and both Chaffinch and Yellow Hammer were feeding on the edge of a field. It was a cold morning with a chill breeze and then as we moved back to the hotel in the distance we could see four Red Deer does moving along the field edge and into the forest. A Redwing was seen by others.
After another excellent meal we set off for Warsaw with a journey time of three hours. Within minutes an adult female Elk was grazing with in metres of the road and that made the photographers very happy. Now we had to say goodbye to the marsh. The ride was uneventful and there was not one White Stork to be seen - it is a bit early and spring is arriving late.
We did look for the Syrian Woodpecker - similar to GS Woodpecker - without any sightings.
What a wonderful two weeks seeing Warsaw, meeting other like minded people, watching the wildlife and having fun too.
LAST DAY IN BIEBRZA MARSH
On our last morning it was an early start to see Elk. However outside the hotel I had very close views of both Tree Sparrow and a pair of Linnets perched within 20 metres. Also a Robin.
We soon found five Elk close to the road and the photographers got busy. Further on in a flooded field there were two Common Cranes feeding and in front of them five Greylag Geese and it got better. Redshanks called and flew, Snipe were drumming and then flew. In addition there were Lapwing exhibiting their crazy flight. It was a magic few minutes.
After breakfast the objectives were to be waders, Ducks and Geese. We were in an active area for many varieties of birds. The idea was to find a field that did not look like a lake and many fields were totally flooded. Near the river we had good views of:
Wigeon - in large numbers
Common Pochard
Teal
Tufted Duck
Garganey - three female and one male seen, but I only saw them fly in and out.
Pintail
Geese flying over as usual
Buzzard - another one as usual, but not in any number.
White Tailed Eagle - two good flying views.
Ruff - several good views
Black Tailed Godwits.
Great Crested Grebe.
Cormorants flew over
We passed Roe Deer grazing in the fields and that there is one of the groups of Roe that favour such an habitat while others are forest animals that stray no further than the edge of the trees.
Instead of a packed lunch we went to a bar overlooking the River Bialowieza at Rús. It was easy to get being on the side of a main road and with a patio overlooking the river and flooded valley.
Skylarks were everywhere and could be viewed even on the ground
The afternoon was spent looking at expanses of water and seeing what was on it. We had some real treats.
On one area just above the water level we saw three species of geese - Greylag, Bean and White Fronted.
This also was a good place for all ducks. The common birds listed before are not mentioned again here, but we did see:
Pintail
Shovelers
Smew - both male and female
Golden Eye
SAWBILLS
Goosanders - two female
GULLS
Black Headed
Herring Gull twice and possibly the same bird and a second year.
White Wagtail.
ALSO
Fieldfare in very good numbers.
White Stork and on nest too.
Cranes in many fields
Great Grey Shrike.
Reed Bunting
Red Fox - probably a dog and in very good condition.
There were in addition very good sightings of both Elk and Roe Deer.
And again we weren't finished as the cold wind felt colder and the light began to get less we went to the village of Goniatz. It sits just above the Biebrza River that had expanded across the flood plain. The sunset was another memorable one as we watched about a dozen Great White Egrets come into roost on an 'island' with one Grey Heron.
The whole group has completed a full list for each day of every species seen. I have not included all birds seen every day and tried to be as informative that I can be without being repetitive. We had some very sharp eyed persons in our group and with their knowledge and the knowledge and experience of Andrzej we had confirmation of all species. There was no guessing!
We will edit again and add the best of the photographs that have been taken by Michelle.
We soon found five Elk close to the road and the photographers got busy. Further on in a flooded field there were two Common Cranes feeding and in front of them five Greylag Geese and it got better. Redshanks called and flew, Snipe were drumming and then flew. In addition there were Lapwing exhibiting their crazy flight. It was a magic few minutes.
After breakfast the objectives were to be waders, Ducks and Geese. We were in an active area for many varieties of birds. The idea was to find a field that did not look like a lake and many fields were totally flooded. Near the river we had good views of:
Wigeon - in large numbers
Common Pochard
Teal
Tufted Duck
Garganey - three female and one male seen, but I only saw them fly in and out.
Pintail
Geese flying over as usual
Buzzard - another one as usual, but not in any number.
White Tailed Eagle - two good flying views.
Ruff - several good views
Black Tailed Godwits.
Great Crested Grebe.
Cormorants flew over
We passed Roe Deer grazing in the fields and that there is one of the groups of Roe that favour such an habitat while others are forest animals that stray no further than the edge of the trees.
Instead of a packed lunch we went to a bar overlooking the River Bialowieza at Rús. It was easy to get being on the side of a main road and with a patio overlooking the river and flooded valley.
Skylarks were everywhere and could be viewed even on the ground
The afternoon was spent looking at expanses of water and seeing what was on it. We had some real treats.
On one area just above the water level we saw three species of geese - Greylag, Bean and White Fronted.
This also was a good place for all ducks. The common birds listed before are not mentioned again here, but we did see:
Pintail
Shovelers
Smew - both male and female
Golden Eye
SAWBILLS
Goosanders - two female
GULLS
Black Headed
Herring Gull twice and possibly the same bird and a second year.
White Wagtail.
ALSO
Fieldfare in very good numbers.
White Stork and on nest too.
Cranes in many fields
Great Grey Shrike.
Reed Bunting
Red Fox - probably a dog and in very good condition.
There were in addition very good sightings of both Elk and Roe Deer.
And again we weren't finished as the cold wind felt colder and the light began to get less we went to the village of Goniatz. It sits just above the Biebrza River that had expanded across the flood plain. The sunset was another memorable one as we watched about a dozen Great White Egrets come into roost on an 'island' with one Grey Heron.
The whole group has completed a full list for each day of every species seen. I have not included all birds seen every day and tried to be as informative that I can be without being repetitive. We had some very sharp eyed persons in our group and with their knowledge and the knowledge and experience of Andrzej we had confirmation of all species. There was no guessing!
We will edit again and add the best of the photographs that have been taken by Michelle.
Friday, 24 March 2017
FULL DAY IN BIEBRZA MARSH
Thursday 23rd March saw a frosty morning and at 8.45 we were ready to go for several hours and with a need of Wellington Boots. Our destination was the Red Marsh which is a vast area and where there is said to be a population of one thousand Elk. Apparently the water levels were too high to drive through and around. Eventually we were allowed limited access and to reach a good vantage point we walked for just under an hour with an estimated distance of three and half kilometers. As we waited for access we saw a male Black Redstart - it had to be an early arrival. In an adjacent paddock there was a Konic Stallion which is a descendent of the first horses and now used in the U.K. for habitat management.
On the way we passed a monument to the villagers that were taken into the forest and shot by the Germans. We saw several such sites on previous days. Again there is so much history.
In the birding sense it was a very quiet day. The habitat that we were in is poor for many species.
On the walk we passed a sanctuary for Wild Boar, Elk and Raptors. I have noticed that there are people who care about the environment and nature. We were on a sandy track that enabled us to see prints of Elk, Wild Boar, Wolf and Fox. Also Wolf dropping indicated their diet of Boar and on one pile was an Orange Underwing Moth. A very good spot for the more observant. There were some birds around including Raven, Buzzard and in the distance a male Marsh Harrier was seen.
One area we walked on a boardwalk which was over a raised bog. Growing on it and through it were Birch Trees and really it could be any swamp, but it wasn't. Another special treat for us and something completely different.
We had been out all day and after a quick evening meal we travelled to Narew River where we looked for Beavers from a boat with the aid of spotlights. The Beavers seemed not to pay that much attention to the sound of the boat engine or to the light. In fact they swam into a beam. We watched one for about 15 minutes as it chewed away and from time to time scratched itself apparently unconcerned with human presence about 20 metres away. I am told that they do react to human voices. We had some wonderful views and Michelle was able to photograph them.
In the beam of the light there were insects flying and Pipistrelle Bats too. Also I caught sight of a Kingfisher as it flew across.
It was a cold evening with a slight sleet shower and then we headed back to the hotel and a beer.
It was a tough day for the legs and feet and we completed over twenty thousand steps according to Fitbit.
On the way we passed a monument to the villagers that were taken into the forest and shot by the Germans. We saw several such sites on previous days. Again there is so much history.
In the birding sense it was a very quiet day. The habitat that we were in is poor for many species.
On the walk we passed a sanctuary for Wild Boar, Elk and Raptors. I have noticed that there are people who care about the environment and nature. We were on a sandy track that enabled us to see prints of Elk, Wild Boar, Wolf and Fox. Also Wolf dropping indicated their diet of Boar and on one pile was an Orange Underwing Moth. A very good spot for the more observant. There were some birds around including Raven, Buzzard and in the distance a male Marsh Harrier was seen.
One area we walked on a boardwalk which was over a raised bog. Growing on it and through it were Birch Trees and really it could be any swamp, but it wasn't. Another special treat for us and something completely different.
We had been out all day and after a quick evening meal we travelled to Narew River where we looked for Beavers from a boat with the aid of spotlights. The Beavers seemed not to pay that much attention to the sound of the boat engine or to the light. In fact they swam into a beam. We watched one for about 15 minutes as it chewed away and from time to time scratched itself apparently unconcerned with human presence about 20 metres away. I am told that they do react to human voices. We had some wonderful views and Michelle was able to photograph them.
In the beam of the light there were insects flying and Pipistrelle Bats too. Also I caught sight of a Kingfisher as it flew across.
It was a cold evening with a slight sleet shower and then we headed back to the hotel and a beer.
It was a tough day for the legs and feet and we completed over twenty thousand steps according to Fitbit.
Thursday, 23 March 2017
ON THE WAY TO BIEBRZA MARSH
I can say that we have not wasted a minute of our time with Wild Poland. All of it has been extremely well planned and our guide Andrzej has moved us from location to location to ensure that we see the maximum possible. We have now moved from Wejmutka (our excellent accommodation) in Bialowieza and we are now in the area of Biebrza Marsh and staying at Dwor Dobraz The journey which did take all day was 160 kilometers with stops on the way.
This morning before leaving we again visited Palace Park. This time it was dry and fairly warm. One of my 'bogey' birds has been Tree Sparrow and today I had a clear uninterrupted view of one and then later in the day we saw more of them. A Song Thrush was singing in full view and there was a Tufted Duck on the lake. (See yesterday's list for other birds). Woodpeckers were drumming and calling and we were surrounded by birdsong. A Dunnock was seen by two of our party.
ON ROUTE
Collared Doves
Rooks and a Rookery in Balystok
Wood Pigeon
Jackdaws
Hooded Crows
Roe Deer
Cranes in pairs - on several,occasions.
Our first stop was at Dojlidy Fish Ponds near Balystok and this is a fantastic area of water with large reedbeds. We saw:
American Mink ran across the track.
Greylag Geese
Wigeon
Golden Eye
Black Headed Gulls - this is a breeding area and they were in large numbers.
Bittern - heard several times
Common Gull X 2. Possible a first year and a second year
Raven
Coot
Geese flying over - one skein one way and three the other way! Several hundred. From their calls White Fronted although it there could have been other species flying too. They were high in the sky.
We had terrific views of Bearded Reedlings as they called, darted through the reeds and called. They were within a few feet of us and were photographed. A memorable few minutes.
Lunch was at Waniewo in the Narew River Park. This is another amazing area with a vast expanse of water. The food was wonderful with cottage cheese pancakes and blackcurrent jam and various hams and cheese. Afterwards we saw:
Buzzard
White Tailed Eagle - in distance only
Osprey - a possible juvenile
Linnet
Mallard
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Yellow Hammer
Sky Larks - several singing
Great Crested Grebes
Pintail male - I missed this one
After reaching Dwor Dobraz our hotel accommodation we again went out to nearby Gugny and a viewing platform and we saw:
Elk in the distance @ 7
Roe Deer - on route and seen near our destination several times.
Woodcock feeding on the side of the road.
Common Toads again.
Geese X 30- thought to be Bean as they flew over.
Sounds of Greylag geese from the marsh at dusk. They are the only geese that breed here.
This was another full day with 160 k journey broken up with excellent places to see birds and wildlife. This area is vast and there is so much to hear, see and do. We are having a wildlife ball!
I am enjoying every minute of it and so well done to Wild Poland.
This morning before leaving we again visited Palace Park. This time it was dry and fairly warm. One of my 'bogey' birds has been Tree Sparrow and today I had a clear uninterrupted view of one and then later in the day we saw more of them. A Song Thrush was singing in full view and there was a Tufted Duck on the lake. (See yesterday's list for other birds). Woodpeckers were drumming and calling and we were surrounded by birdsong. A Dunnock was seen by two of our party.
ON ROUTE
Collared Doves
Rooks and a Rookery in Balystok
Wood Pigeon
Jackdaws
Hooded Crows
Roe Deer
Cranes in pairs - on several,occasions.
Our first stop was at Dojlidy Fish Ponds near Balystok and this is a fantastic area of water with large reedbeds. We saw:
American Mink ran across the track.
Greylag Geese
Wigeon
Golden Eye
Black Headed Gulls - this is a breeding area and they were in large numbers.
Bittern - heard several times
Common Gull X 2. Possible a first year and a second year
Raven
Coot
Geese flying over - one skein one way and three the other way! Several hundred. From their calls White Fronted although it there could have been other species flying too. They were high in the sky.
We had terrific views of Bearded Reedlings as they called, darted through the reeds and called. They were within a few feet of us and were photographed. A memorable few minutes.
Lunch was at Waniewo in the Narew River Park. This is another amazing area with a vast expanse of water. The food was wonderful with cottage cheese pancakes and blackcurrent jam and various hams and cheese. Afterwards we saw:
Buzzard
White Tailed Eagle - in distance only
Osprey - a possible juvenile
Linnet
Mallard
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Yellow Hammer
Sky Larks - several singing
Great Crested Grebes
Pintail male - I missed this one
After reaching Dwor Dobraz our hotel accommodation we again went out to nearby Gugny and a viewing platform and we saw:
Elk in the distance @ 7
Roe Deer - on route and seen near our destination several times.
Woodcock feeding on the side of the road.
Common Toads again.
Geese X 30- thought to be Bean as they flew over.
Sounds of Greylag geese from the marsh at dusk. They are the only geese that breed here.
This was another full day with 160 k journey broken up with excellent places to see birds and wildlife. This area is vast and there is so much to hear, see and do. We are having a wildlife ball!
I am enjoying every minute of it and so well done to Wild Poland.
Tuesday, 21 March 2017
DAY THREE IN BIALOWIEZA
Today we had a series of short walks which is different from the previous two days. I was up at 5.30am and only four of us went out for a walk in the town park, Palace Park, which was formally for the Russian Czars. Nicholas Second's Palace once stood here but all that remains are some stables. On the site now stands an imposing building which houses a museum and the offices for the Park Authority. There must be so much history here if only we had time.
It was raining heavily when we stepped outside and the temperature was at least seven degrees.
Bullfinches were everywhere
Siskins were flying in a flock and feeding on the ground.
Waxbills again for the third time - Fantastic and much closer to see.
Chaffinch
Great and Blue Tits were in the trees.
Reed Buntings
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker called and then it flew from tree to tree landing on the trunks at our level. It was a female and this is the best view that I have ever had.
Black Headed Gulls flew over.
On the lake we saw:
Golden Eye - one male and two females
Mallard
Wigeon
Great White Egret
Grey Herons X two.
Around the lake there was ample evidence of Beaver. There was one tree with a diameter of more than two feet with only the core not eaten through. Other trees they had started on and these were now protected with netting otherwise there would be no trees left! After WW2 there were few beavers and then some were introduced and now there is a substantial population.
What a fantastic hour and then back for some more great food for breakfast. All the meals have been of high quality in Polish style and there has been plenty of it.
Out again with one layer of clothing shed to Wysokie Vagno Forest.
In the forest we saw:
Waxwings outside the front of the hotel
Siskin
GS Woodpecker
Crested Tit with three sightings and eventually I had clear views when perched.
Willow Tit and a great view too
Great and Blue Tits
Gold crest (but not a clear sight for me - yet)
Crossbill (again not a clear view - yet)
Hawfinch
Yellow Hammer singing and another good view
Mistle Thrush in good voice
Song Thrush
Fieldfare
Treecreeper - I need to get a view of this one
Jay
Raven
Buzzard
Bullfinches were everywhere.
House Sparrows.
We had a short stop to see a Beaver dam and a lodge which we thought was in current use.
Back for lunch at 12.45 pm.
A target bird for this walk was Crested Tit which was successful and the Three Toed Woodpecker which we will still try to find.
After lunch we went to a dryer part of the forest - Place of Power - where it was very quiet. We moved on and we were successful.
Michelle saw and pointed out a Three Toed Woodpecker and I saw it fly across the road and then perch. ID was confirmed. We also tried again for the Pygmy Owl, but for then no luck. However two Hazel Grouse flew fast and low, but not seen by me.
Three Red Stags crossed a track that we were on and the last one stood long enough to be photographed.
On route we saw a very large amount of Chaffinches.
Then to the same site as last night for the elusive Pygmy Owl at the Black Trail, near to Budy Village at Old Bialowieźa. We got lucky when one flew across the open space that we were in and then four flew quickly through apparently chasing one another. This may seem to be too good to be believed, but four of these species have been seen on a recent occasion.
It is the first day of spring and Brown Frogs, Moor Frogs and Common Toads were active and needed to be avoided when driving. Apparently it is going to rain tonight and the frogs know this and so they have become active.
What a great day. It started well and ended strongly. Now we move on to Biebrza Marshes.
While completing this blog I met two people who are local and work in the park. One we passed when he was leading a group of school children in the forest. The other works in the park and is concerned with Spotted Eagle nest sites. It is so wonderful to see and speak to local people who work in and for the environment.
It was raining heavily when we stepped outside and the temperature was at least seven degrees.
Bullfinches were everywhere
Siskins were flying in a flock and feeding on the ground.
Waxbills again for the third time - Fantastic and much closer to see.
Chaffinch
Great and Blue Tits were in the trees.
Reed Buntings
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker called and then it flew from tree to tree landing on the trunks at our level. It was a female and this is the best view that I have ever had.
Black Headed Gulls flew over.
On the lake we saw:
Golden Eye - one male and two females
Mallard
Wigeon
Great White Egret
Grey Herons X two.
Around the lake there was ample evidence of Beaver. There was one tree with a diameter of more than two feet with only the core not eaten through. Other trees they had started on and these were now protected with netting otherwise there would be no trees left! After WW2 there were few beavers and then some were introduced and now there is a substantial population.
What a fantastic hour and then back for some more great food for breakfast. All the meals have been of high quality in Polish style and there has been plenty of it.
Out again with one layer of clothing shed to Wysokie Vagno Forest.
In the forest we saw:
Waxwings outside the front of the hotel
Siskin
GS Woodpecker
Crested Tit with three sightings and eventually I had clear views when perched.
Willow Tit and a great view too
Great and Blue Tits
Gold crest (but not a clear sight for me - yet)
Crossbill (again not a clear view - yet)
Hawfinch
Yellow Hammer singing and another good view
Mistle Thrush in good voice
Song Thrush
Fieldfare
Treecreeper - I need to get a view of this one
Jay
Raven
Buzzard
Bullfinches were everywhere.
House Sparrows.
We had a short stop to see a Beaver dam and a lodge which we thought was in current use.
Back for lunch at 12.45 pm.
A target bird for this walk was Crested Tit which was successful and the Three Toed Woodpecker which we will still try to find.
After lunch we went to a dryer part of the forest - Place of Power - where it was very quiet. We moved on and we were successful.
Michelle saw and pointed out a Three Toed Woodpecker and I saw it fly across the road and then perch. ID was confirmed. We also tried again for the Pygmy Owl, but for then no luck. However two Hazel Grouse flew fast and low, but not seen by me.
Three Red Stags crossed a track that we were on and the last one stood long enough to be photographed.
On route we saw a very large amount of Chaffinches.
Then to the same site as last night for the elusive Pygmy Owl at the Black Trail, near to Budy Village at Old Bialowieźa. We got lucky when one flew across the open space that we were in and then four flew quickly through apparently chasing one another. This may seem to be too good to be believed, but four of these species have been seen on a recent occasion.
It is the first day of spring and Brown Frogs, Moor Frogs and Common Toads were active and needed to be avoided when driving. Apparently it is going to rain tonight and the frogs know this and so they have become active.
What a great day. It started well and ended strongly. Now we move on to Biebrza Marshes.
While completing this blog I met two people who are local and work in the park. One we passed when he was leading a group of school children in the forest. The other works in the park and is concerned with Spotted Eagle nest sites. It is so wonderful to see and speak to local people who work in and for the environment.
Saturday, 18 March 2017
After the Death Camps
On Thursday morning after yesterday's visit to the death camps it was time to recover after a very long day, reflect, write up the blog and have a relatively quiet day. However we knew that there was more to see in Warsaw. Our first visit was just across the square from where we were staying and we climbed to the top of St Annes Church Tower and later we walked to The Palace of Culture and Science. An imposing tall building apparently donated by the Soviets to the people of Poland. That was kind of them bearing in mind the control that they exerted over their dominions. A lift took us up thirty levels where we could view the city.
Then a two tone beer in a jug. A novel idea
Then Hard Rock Cafe it just had to be done. It should not be missed! Michelle ordered a Long Island Iced Tea. It looked very drab to me when it arrived and I ordered a Hurricane. Well, it is supposed to be tall and strong and it proved to be very colourful. It tasted very good too.
We bought T shirts from the shop and moved on.
We found an Irish Bar with repetitious Irish ballads, very dreary interior and not good Guinness and we left after one glass.
Returning home we poured ourselves a drink and reflected on the day and what the objectives for tomorrow we will achieve.
On Friday 17th at 11am we started out. It has been along time coming, but eventually I stood at the door of 32/34 Rasblat where relatives on my mother's side once lived. A strange feeling, but looking at he surroundings they were not poor. They survived because they were not Jewish and were possibly Catholic. The research goes on.
And now some birding at last. We met Dorota our guide for the afternoon on the other side of the Vistula from our Old Town apartment. This side of the river does not have an embankment and has a sandy beach with an area of trees that runs along the river for 130 kilometers and is now a national park. I wanted to do the local birding trip on our first day, but this was not possible. If we had the local knowledge on our first day then we could have done - possibly - more local birding.
We enjoyed our stroll along the riverside and with Dorota's keen eyes we saw and correctly identified the following:
Hawfinch and we saw one more later - a first for MME
Siskin
Pied Wagtail
Great Tits were calling and seen.
Blue Tits as well
Field Fares flew
Male Chaffinch
Tree Creeper
Male Goosander on the river, then two more later on.
(Another first for us)
Mallards
Black-headed Gulls
Wood Pigeon
A Cormorant and a Grey Heron flew down the river.
A Sparrow Hawk flew as it was being mobbed by the Hooded Crows.
Dorota knew where a Peregrine Falcon can be seen. We were lucky because after a kill one was perched on a church - stunning views through the scope. This was not a nesting site and it appears to be a wintertime perch.
One hundred and fifty geese flew over, but not identified and they were flying the wrong way!
There was a lot of evidence where a Black Woodpecker had been stripping bark to feed on the insects beneath and where a Beaver had chewed into trees. Also footprint of a Wild Boar in the sandy shore. Obviously the river acts as a wildlife highway. She also said that Beaver can be seen at night and sometimes Elk.
Up river and down river of Warsaw there are sandy islands which are protected reserves where birds can breed.
On the down side there is a minister that is not eco friendly and is one of the hunting, fishing and bloody shooting brigade. It is what we have to keep fighting against.
Then a short tram ride into the Old Town and opposite our apartment the best bar in Town. Green Lager for her tinged green for Paddy´s Day and a dark Polish beer for me.
After so many or three we ate and returned for another early night,
On Saturday we travel east to Bialowieźa and the Biebrza Marshes with Wild Poland to see what the primeval forest and Marsh can show us. Then we return to Warsaw and overnight in a hotel then return to Spain on Sunday.
Then a two tone beer in a jug. A novel idea
Then Hard Rock Cafe it just had to be done. It should not be missed! Michelle ordered a Long Island Iced Tea. It looked very drab to me when it arrived and I ordered a Hurricane. Well, it is supposed to be tall and strong and it proved to be very colourful. It tasted very good too.
We bought T shirts from the shop and moved on.
We found an Irish Bar with repetitious Irish ballads, very dreary interior and not good Guinness and we left after one glass.
Returning home we poured ourselves a drink and reflected on the day and what the objectives for tomorrow we will achieve.
On Friday 17th at 11am we started out. It has been along time coming, but eventually I stood at the door of 32/34 Rasblat where relatives on my mother's side once lived. A strange feeling, but looking at he surroundings they were not poor. They survived because they were not Jewish and were possibly Catholic. The research goes on.
And now some birding at last. We met Dorota our guide for the afternoon on the other side of the Vistula from our Old Town apartment. This side of the river does not have an embankment and has a sandy beach with an area of trees that runs along the river for 130 kilometers and is now a national park. I wanted to do the local birding trip on our first day, but this was not possible. If we had the local knowledge on our first day then we could have done - possibly - more local birding.
We enjoyed our stroll along the riverside and with Dorota's keen eyes we saw and correctly identified the following:
Hawfinch and we saw one more later - a first for MME
Siskin
Pied Wagtail
Great Tits were calling and seen.
Blue Tits as well
Field Fares flew
Male Chaffinch
Tree Creeper
Male Goosander on the river, then two more later on.
(Another first for us)
Mallards
Black-headed Gulls
Wood Pigeon
A Cormorant and a Grey Heron flew down the river.
A Sparrow Hawk flew as it was being mobbed by the Hooded Crows.
Dorota knew where a Peregrine Falcon can be seen. We were lucky because after a kill one was perched on a church - stunning views through the scope. This was not a nesting site and it appears to be a wintertime perch.
One hundred and fifty geese flew over, but not identified and they were flying the wrong way!
There was a lot of evidence where a Black Woodpecker had been stripping bark to feed on the insects beneath and where a Beaver had chewed into trees. Also footprint of a Wild Boar in the sandy shore. Obviously the river acts as a wildlife highway. She also said that Beaver can be seen at night and sometimes Elk.
Up river and down river of Warsaw there are sandy islands which are protected reserves where birds can breed.
On the down side there is a minister that is not eco friendly and is one of the hunting, fishing and bloody shooting brigade. It is what we have to keep fighting against.
Then a short tram ride into the Old Town and opposite our apartment the best bar in Town. Green Lager for her tinged green for Paddy´s Day and a dark Polish beer for me.
After so many or three we ate and returned for another early night,
On Saturday we travel east to Bialowieźa and the Biebrza Marshes with Wild Poland to see what the primeval forest and Marsh can show us. Then we return to Warsaw and overnight in a hotel then return to Spain on Sunday.
Thursday, 16 March 2017
AUSCHWITZ POEMS - Gray Columns
In the Auschwitz Poems I looked for something that would concisely indicate the horrors of the camps; that would expand on some words that I have written and after a great amount of searching I decided on this one.
GRAY COLUMNS
In the gray columns of weary women
Going each day to work
Barefoot half naked, hungry cold
Wretched shadows dragging each foot.
Not all of them will return to the camp
Many will remain in the road
Their corpses will be pulled back into rows
They are needed for the roll call.
Corpses from the fields, corpses from the near blocks
Are thrown together on the piles
Today's half dead - will burn tomorrow
The same fate is waiting us all.
Only a dark smoke will burst to the skies
And the wind will whistle victoriously
Spreading the stench of burnt bodies
In glory or in defeat.
The marching columns of weary women
Young and old - mature and children
To last at least another day
Freedom must not be far away.
Monika
Birkenau, 1943
Translated from Polish by June Friedman.
GRAY COLUMNS
In the gray columns of weary women
Going each day to work
Barefoot half naked, hungry cold
Wretched shadows dragging each foot.
Not all of them will return to the camp
Many will remain in the road
Their corpses will be pulled back into rows
They are needed for the roll call.
Corpses from the fields, corpses from the near blocks
Are thrown together on the piles
Today's half dead - will burn tomorrow
The same fate is waiting us all.
Only a dark smoke will burst to the skies
And the wind will whistle victoriously
Spreading the stench of burnt bodies
In glory or in defeat.
The marching columns of weary women
Young and old - mature and children
To last at least another day
Freedom must not be far away.
Monika
Birkenau, 1943
Translated from Polish by June Friedman.
Auschwitz and Birkenau Extermination Camps
Neither of us had decided before arriving in Poland either to go to Treblinka or Auschwitz (Oświęcim in Polish) or not and having visited the former we decided that we should visit the latter and that including a short visit to relatively near by Krakow.
The Nazi's scheme to initially degrade Jews and then to reduce them to ashes was to clinically assess how to do it. Then, after the meeting in Wannsee, in Berlin in January 1942, it provided the impetus to commit Genocide. (A term not accepted, as such, until after the conclusion of the Nuremberg Trials).
My feelings are raw and on seeing the places where extreme cruelty was perpetrated it is hard to take in: it is still in my reflected vision.
Some examples such as punishment cells where inmates that had transgressed would spend the night standing up with three others, with standing room for four only, having had to crawl in via a three foot high door are imprinted on my mind; then to be sent to work the next day.
Another punishment was to crowd inmates into an equally small room where they were left without food or water until they died.
Each day they would stand on parade, maybe for up to an hour, and then be marched to work wearing only clogs, clothing that was no more protective than pajamas in all weathers and temperatures. The idea was to destroy until death and for them to be replaced by others.
On return from their slave labour work they were then stood to be counted and until complete they would stay there with some fading away into their peace. If one was deemed to be missing then it had to be resolved with a record of one occasion taking nineteen hours. Death would have come to more of them. Escapees when captured would be executed along with ten others to persuade others to 'behave'.
This camp bears no comparison to the size of Birkenau (Brzezinka) which was enormous and the site shows it. Here there was death on an industrial scale. The huts were all constructed by slave labour and intended to house the maximum amount of personnel in cramped, cold and unhygienic conditions. Food was so limited that it caused 'starvation diarrhea'. Only allowed to use the toilet twice a day and with showering limited to once in three months the whole place must have stank of human deprivation, human waste and death. All deliberately undertaken to reach 'The Final Solution'. We should not forget.
There is one thing that I keep re-visualizing are the railway lines that led to each camp and the images of survivors of the journey appearing out of the cattle wagons to be segregated. Women and children to one side with men to the other. All calculated to weaken any resolve to resist as they were stripped of all clothing and belongings to walk into the shower room for cleansing. ZyclonB and the ovens then were set to work. The ashes were dispersed into ponds, the rivers and also spread as fertilizer on the land.
In 1945 and to attempt to cover up this mass murder the SS blew up the gas chambers. They could seem to have some sense of guilt or maybe it was to escape retribution. Of the seven thousand SS guards only one thousand were brought to any form of punishment. The rest disappeared into the chaos of the time.
Rudolp Hüss, the commandant of Auschwitz was tried and returned to the camp where he was hanged on gallows made for him alone. Apparently, his one regret, was that he did not spend enough time with his children. He was hanged in plain sight of the house where he had lived with his wife and five children in comfort.
It has been said that no bird song can be heard. This is not true as there was evidence of birds at all three camps. Nature seems to adapt well.
Our guide was incredible. She has been doing this for twenty years and does four tours a week. She said that if she took a break from it she may never be able to return. I think I can go some way to understanding her point. It was all poignant for me and for her more so as over that period of time she met many survivors who returned. She has heard their sufferings from the people upon whom it was inflicted.
In the Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum I bought THE AUSCHWITZ POEMS. I had looked at some of the writings before and apart from recollections of the visits I wanted to take something away with me. I think that I should only read them when I am having a good day!
I could say that everyone should visit, but that is a very personal choice and maybe I will return again.
The Nazi's scheme to initially degrade Jews and then to reduce them to ashes was to clinically assess how to do it. Then, after the meeting in Wannsee, in Berlin in January 1942, it provided the impetus to commit Genocide. (A term not accepted, as such, until after the conclusion of the Nuremberg Trials).
My feelings are raw and on seeing the places where extreme cruelty was perpetrated it is hard to take in: it is still in my reflected vision.
Some examples such as punishment cells where inmates that had transgressed would spend the night standing up with three others, with standing room for four only, having had to crawl in via a three foot high door are imprinted on my mind; then to be sent to work the next day.
Another punishment was to crowd inmates into an equally small room where they were left without food or water until they died.
Each day they would stand on parade, maybe for up to an hour, and then be marched to work wearing only clogs, clothing that was no more protective than pajamas in all weathers and temperatures. The idea was to destroy until death and for them to be replaced by others.
On return from their slave labour work they were then stood to be counted and until complete they would stay there with some fading away into their peace. If one was deemed to be missing then it had to be resolved with a record of one occasion taking nineteen hours. Death would have come to more of them. Escapees when captured would be executed along with ten others to persuade others to 'behave'.
This camp bears no comparison to the size of Birkenau (Brzezinka) which was enormous and the site shows it. Here there was death on an industrial scale. The huts were all constructed by slave labour and intended to house the maximum amount of personnel in cramped, cold and unhygienic conditions. Food was so limited that it caused 'starvation diarrhea'. Only allowed to use the toilet twice a day and with showering limited to once in three months the whole place must have stank of human deprivation, human waste and death. All deliberately undertaken to reach 'The Final Solution'. We should not forget.
There is one thing that I keep re-visualizing are the railway lines that led to each camp and the images of survivors of the journey appearing out of the cattle wagons to be segregated. Women and children to one side with men to the other. All calculated to weaken any resolve to resist as they were stripped of all clothing and belongings to walk into the shower room for cleansing. ZyclonB and the ovens then were set to work. The ashes were dispersed into ponds, the rivers and also spread as fertilizer on the land.
In 1945 and to attempt to cover up this mass murder the SS blew up the gas chambers. They could seem to have some sense of guilt or maybe it was to escape retribution. Of the seven thousand SS guards only one thousand were brought to any form of punishment. The rest disappeared into the chaos of the time.
Rudolp Hüss, the commandant of Auschwitz was tried and returned to the camp where he was hanged on gallows made for him alone. Apparently, his one regret, was that he did not spend enough time with his children. He was hanged in plain sight of the house where he had lived with his wife and five children in comfort.
It has been said that no bird song can be heard. This is not true as there was evidence of birds at all three camps. Nature seems to adapt well.
Our guide was incredible. She has been doing this for twenty years and does four tours a week. She said that if she took a break from it she may never be able to return. I think I can go some way to understanding her point. It was all poignant for me and for her more so as over that period of time she met many survivors who returned. She has heard their sufferings from the people upon whom it was inflicted.
In the Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum I bought THE AUSCHWITZ POEMS. I had looked at some of the writings before and apart from recollections of the visits I wanted to take something away with me. I think that I should only read them when I am having a good day!
I could say that everyone should visit, but that is a very personal choice and maybe I will return again.
Tuesday, 14 March 2017
Treblinka - Death and Slave Labour Camps
We met our guide just before nine for the visit to Treblinka. Jacek knew his stuff and he took us to the relevant points in Warsaw which included certain monuments and one point that showed the edge of a ghetto area. Also the holding area that was just one kilometer square where those unfortunate and discriminated people waited to be transported to their premature deaths after having to suffer abhorrent treatment.
The journey to Treblinka took about one and half hours and on the way we saw a mixture of landscape, trees yet to come into leaf and sodden fields with some standing water. The snow had only disappeared two or so so weeks ago and the grass looked flat and lifeless after the winter. We saw a mixture of architecture and some old wooden buildings in the country areas. That is not to say that there was dereliction and new builds were evident.
Both the slave labour camp and the extermination camp were deliberately placed in woods and out of normal view of the world. Afterwards they reduced it to ground level in an attempt to hide what had actually occurred there.
There is since 2011 a small functional museum that goes some way to explain what the camps looked like and how the exterminations took place. There is a scale model where the possible locations of all the aspects have been elicited through thorough investigations by academics.
Excavations of mass graves have take place and it became known that the initial victims were buried, later dug up to be burnt and then re-interned. Later victims were incinerated or partly so before being thrown into the death pit.
The camps were staffed by SS officers and soldiers and with guards from the Ukraine. The workers were slave labour that existed in the separate camp. These were conditions were horrific not only in the work that they were forced to do, but with a food supply that was at starvation levels and where they were expected to labour for 12 hours per day. Brutality and death were part of their daily diet. The smell from the camps and the smoke from burning bodies must have been awful to the extreme.
This was a systematic annihilation of not only Jewish people, but Sinti and Roma as well. A railway was built and cattle trucks were used to convey them to a purpose built station. Every thing that was done was intended to deceive the unfortunates. It was deliberate organized murder on a grand scale. On one day 17,00 were eliminated and now there are the same number standing stones to commemorate them.
Close to the slave labour camp there are stone crosses some with names and some with a date where in November and December 1943 the inmates from the labour camp were executed with bullet through the back of the head. Peace at last for them, but agony for the living.
There was an uprising where over 600 escaped, but only 200 or so survived even for a while. Some were able to tell there stories and that must account for the names on the crosses.
I am not sure what my feelings are about this visit as I think that I need time to assimilate what I have seen and maybe be in a place where I can articulate something more.
I know that it is impressive. The vision that is created by all those standing stones and that the perimeter is marked by large upright stones and it is clear where the railway tracks and platform once were. All of it is very atmospheric, but the story is greater than what is left to see. However it is a monument to the destructive nature of the Third Reich and should never be forgotten.
On a much lighter note. After returning from our first guided trip we needed replenishments of various kinds. A supermarket beckoned and with a minimum of fuss we bought some eating essentials, two bottles of Porter, just as samples, and a bottle of Vodka, to be taken slightly more seriously.
We had noticed 'Bar and Books' and with that as a title we had to go in. Well it was both elegant and swish. It definitely had style. The barman a twenty old something with jacket, tie and a crinkly collar prepared Michelle a Grapefruit Margarita in style of course and I quaffed, in an elegant glass, a bottle of Coffee Porter. We enjoyed our drinks, looked around us taking it all in while funky style European Jazz conspired with a silent old James Bond film to entertain. Another barman appeared from somewhere, did a few things and two female attendants graced the end of the bar. It could have been so good in there, but there was no attempt to engage with us and that did not make us feel either welcome or comfortable. It is on the edge of 'The Old Town and we are not sure that it fits in this area.
The first 'Bar and Books' was opened in New York and they have two in Prague. Warsaw opened eighteen months ago and there is one owner. Good luck to him, but perhaps it was not for us. There are other bars to investigate and sample the local atmosphere.
And now it could be Krakow tomorrow and a different concept at Auschwitz.
The journey to Treblinka took about one and half hours and on the way we saw a mixture of landscape, trees yet to come into leaf and sodden fields with some standing water. The snow had only disappeared two or so so weeks ago and the grass looked flat and lifeless after the winter. We saw a mixture of architecture and some old wooden buildings in the country areas. That is not to say that there was dereliction and new builds were evident.
Both the slave labour camp and the extermination camp were deliberately placed in woods and out of normal view of the world. Afterwards they reduced it to ground level in an attempt to hide what had actually occurred there.
There is since 2011 a small functional museum that goes some way to explain what the camps looked like and how the exterminations took place. There is a scale model where the possible locations of all the aspects have been elicited through thorough investigations by academics.
Excavations of mass graves have take place and it became known that the initial victims were buried, later dug up to be burnt and then re-interned. Later victims were incinerated or partly so before being thrown into the death pit.
The camps were staffed by SS officers and soldiers and with guards from the Ukraine. The workers were slave labour that existed in the separate camp. These were conditions were horrific not only in the work that they were forced to do, but with a food supply that was at starvation levels and where they were expected to labour for 12 hours per day. Brutality and death were part of their daily diet. The smell from the camps and the smoke from burning bodies must have been awful to the extreme.
This was a systematic annihilation of not only Jewish people, but Sinti and Roma as well. A railway was built and cattle trucks were used to convey them to a purpose built station. Every thing that was done was intended to deceive the unfortunates. It was deliberate organized murder on a grand scale. On one day 17,00 were eliminated and now there are the same number standing stones to commemorate them.
Close to the slave labour camp there are stone crosses some with names and some with a date where in November and December 1943 the inmates from the labour camp were executed with bullet through the back of the head. Peace at last for them, but agony for the living.
There was an uprising where over 600 escaped, but only 200 or so survived even for a while. Some were able to tell there stories and that must account for the names on the crosses.
I am not sure what my feelings are about this visit as I think that I need time to assimilate what I have seen and maybe be in a place where I can articulate something more.
I know that it is impressive. The vision that is created by all those standing stones and that the perimeter is marked by large upright stones and it is clear where the railway tracks and platform once were. All of it is very atmospheric, but the story is greater than what is left to see. However it is a monument to the destructive nature of the Third Reich and should never be forgotten.
On a much lighter note. After returning from our first guided trip we needed replenishments of various kinds. A supermarket beckoned and with a minimum of fuss we bought some eating essentials, two bottles of Porter, just as samples, and a bottle of Vodka, to be taken slightly more seriously.
We had noticed 'Bar and Books' and with that as a title we had to go in. Well it was both elegant and swish. It definitely had style. The barman a twenty old something with jacket, tie and a crinkly collar prepared Michelle a Grapefruit Margarita in style of course and I quaffed, in an elegant glass, a bottle of Coffee Porter. We enjoyed our drinks, looked around us taking it all in while funky style European Jazz conspired with a silent old James Bond film to entertain. Another barman appeared from somewhere, did a few things and two female attendants graced the end of the bar. It could have been so good in there, but there was no attempt to engage with us and that did not make us feel either welcome or comfortable. It is on the edge of 'The Old Town and we are not sure that it fits in this area.
The first 'Bar and Books' was opened in New York and they have two in Prague. Warsaw opened eighteen months ago and there is one owner. Good luck to him, but perhaps it was not for us. There are other bars to investigate and sample the local atmosphere.
And now it could be Krakow tomorrow and a different concept at Auschwitz.
Monday, 13 March 2017
Family Research at The Jewish Institute
This morning was reserved for another visit to the Jewish Institute where the genealogy department would be open. In there I met Matan Shelfi an Israeli born English speaker who loved his work and it showed. I spent more than hour in his company while he did his best to search and try and extract information about members of my mother's family who came to Poland in 1928.
What we established was that my great-aunt, her husband, her son and their daughter were not or did not show any Jewish origins and it may well be that they were Catholic. The head of the family was shown in a telephone directory - a German one - and they were at the given address in 1942.
We could find no trace of any of the names in other sources and it maybe that because I am only an indirect descendent I will not be given information. However, I will persevere as there is military route to follow and The Polish Institute and Sikorsky Museum in London. That will have to wait until later. Also it looks as though I should go the Catholic Church route now that I know that the Jewish connection does not exist.
However we traced the family to an address in Warsaw which was not destroyed and still exists. I have seen photographs of it as it was in 1939 and an up-to-date one. It is in a good class area which does indicate their status. We will visit. I have to.
We are now in a bar drinking stout for me and for her a Pils The sign on the wall 'Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales is odd. We know all the best places to go!
I am very impressed by this city. The streets are remarkably clean with no litter at all. The smokers stand outside with a litter bin close by. I did not see even one 'dog-end' on the floor. That is a credit to them and their culture. I can add to that as well as they all seem so friendly. It is a good place to be.
What we established was that my great-aunt, her husband, her son and their daughter were not or did not show any Jewish origins and it may well be that they were Catholic. The head of the family was shown in a telephone directory - a German one - and they were at the given address in 1942.
We could find no trace of any of the names in other sources and it maybe that because I am only an indirect descendent I will not be given information. However, I will persevere as there is military route to follow and The Polish Institute and Sikorsky Museum in London. That will have to wait until later. Also it looks as though I should go the Catholic Church route now that I know that the Jewish connection does not exist.
However we traced the family to an address in Warsaw which was not destroyed and still exists. I have seen photographs of it as it was in 1939 and an up-to-date one. It is in a good class area which does indicate their status. We will visit. I have to.
We are now in a bar drinking stout for me and for her a Pils The sign on the wall 'Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales is odd. We know all the best places to go!
I am very impressed by this city. The streets are remarkably clean with no litter at all. The smokers stand outside with a litter bin close by. I did not see even one 'dog-end' on the floor. That is a credit to them and their culture. I can add to that as well as they all seem so friendly. It is a good place to be.
WARSAW & The Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute
We arrived Saturday evening and soon we were in the Old Town and quickly found Julia's Apartment. Vehicular access is limited and we only had a short walk dragging our suitcases over the square cobble streets. Then we found Julia and went straight up to our accommodation on the first floor. The entrance hallway, all secure behind a locked gate, and then wide bare wooden stairs took us to the door of where we will spend a week. I looked around seeing peeling paint and decaying plaster and for some reason I felt very comfortable with that. Warsaw thanks to the Third Reich was mostly destroyed and the block we are in was re-built in 1953 when under Soviet control. Then we saw our apartment and could immediately see that this had been revamped. Smart, modern and mostly IKEA and light, bright with an amazingly comfortable bed. We were at home, it seemed.
Sunday morning was bright, mostly cloudy with a light breeze and a temperature of around 4/5 degrees. Birdlife was limited but Hooded Crows called and flew. We saw one foraging on the grass and it appeared to dig up a cache of meat, maybe. A few gulls flew and there were a House Sparrows. Pigeons of course were easily seen.
We strolled past some magnificent buildings on our way to The Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. It was very peaceful and calm inside with a massive entrance hall and stairways. We were told that the Germans had blown up the Synagogue that was next door and the building that we were in was damaged by that explosion and fire as a consequence.
I think that we were the only visitors and having climbed to the first floor we were met by a guide who explained that there was a film to be viewed. We sat and watched pre 1939 scenes of Warsaw and then the horrors of the atrocities inflicted on the Jewish community. The naked dead lying in the streets to be carried away on hand carts and handled like rubbish by the Jewish enforced undertakers. All of these scenes viewed as one would watch a film. The pitiful living dressed in rags and sometimes bare footed and all cold and hungry.
The Nazis had made a propaganda film showing the best of how some Jews were living with meals in restaurants and going to the theatre. The reverse was true, of course. Then the destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto after the uprising had been obliterated together with all structures. It was death on an industrial scale with a more callous example being in the extermination camps as in Treblinka. I think that we will have to go there just to gaze on the space that it once occupied.
It is now Monday morning and I needed to let yesterday's images settle in my mind before I felt able to write about them. On reflection we enjoyed our stroll around (atrocities apart) among the squares, fantastic architecture, other sightseers and bars and restaurants.
For this morning I will re-trace my steps to go to The Genealogy Department and search for some of my past family.
Sunday morning was bright, mostly cloudy with a light breeze and a temperature of around 4/5 degrees. Birdlife was limited but Hooded Crows called and flew. We saw one foraging on the grass and it appeared to dig up a cache of meat, maybe. A few gulls flew and there were a House Sparrows. Pigeons of course were easily seen.
We strolled past some magnificent buildings on our way to The Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. It was very peaceful and calm inside with a massive entrance hall and stairways. We were told that the Germans had blown up the Synagogue that was next door and the building that we were in was damaged by that explosion and fire as a consequence.
I think that we were the only visitors and having climbed to the first floor we were met by a guide who explained that there was a film to be viewed. We sat and watched pre 1939 scenes of Warsaw and then the horrors of the atrocities inflicted on the Jewish community. The naked dead lying in the streets to be carried away on hand carts and handled like rubbish by the Jewish enforced undertakers. All of these scenes viewed as one would watch a film. The pitiful living dressed in rags and sometimes bare footed and all cold and hungry.
The Nazis had made a propaganda film showing the best of how some Jews were living with meals in restaurants and going to the theatre. The reverse was true, of course. Then the destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto after the uprising had been obliterated together with all structures. It was death on an industrial scale with a more callous example being in the extermination camps as in Treblinka. I think that we will have to go there just to gaze on the space that it once occupied.
It is now Monday morning and I needed to let yesterday's images settle in my mind before I felt able to write about them. On reflection we enjoyed our stroll around (atrocities apart) among the squares, fantastic architecture, other sightseers and bars and restaurants.
For this morning I will re-trace my steps to go to The Genealogy Department and search for some of my past family.
Saturday, 11 March 2017
WARSAW AND BEYOND
WE ARE ON OUR WAY TO POLAND
We had booked the seven am train from Alicante to Madrid on Saturday 11th March and so we had made the decision to overnight in La City Hotel opposite the train station. It was comfortable and convenient.
Alicante was buzzing as we strolled into the Old Town. Bars and restaurants were busy and since the weather was good the seats and tables were packed with eaters, drinkers, talkers and smokers. Michelle found NiC again as she has been here before! She ordered a Lemon Tonic and I ordered a Cinnamon Fresh both with gin and bits and bobs. We sipped our drinks, did our usual people watching and let it all go by us. It is so refreshing to get away. After this peaceful interlude we sat in La Tagliatella and I devoured a Pizza a Pera and Michelle did her best to eat Pumpkin and Ricotta Ravioli. All scrumptious. Since we live in only a small town and are used to 'The Costas' it so good to go to a city.
On our way back to the hotel we passed an Sports Bar - well you just have to go in - and there was a screen showing the Wales v Ireland Six Nations Rugby game at the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff. I just had to go in, watch the game and for me a pint of Spitfire and for her the usual Vodka & Tonic. What a treat and what a game! It was a bruising contest with the winner not obvious until the final few minutes. It was a well done for The Principality. An English referee - Wayne Barnes - was excellent of course.
Saturday morning saw us at the train station at seven and we were in Madrid by 9:35. It was an excellent and comfortable journey in our first class seats. The attendants were both efficient and gorgeous, but the ticket man could do with a more energetic lifestyle! On the way north of Alicante I looked out for our two favourite birding areas of Yecla and then after Almansa the area around Petrola and Bonete and I was pleased to see that there was standing water in the low spots in the corn fields. That bodes well for waders and our visit at the end of the month.
The station is massive with all the platforms modern. They have retained the old roof, planted palms and shrubs where the tracks used to be and with shops and restaurants around it. A water feature held at least two hundred or so terrapins and I hope they were Spain's native ones.
Outside there was a gathering to commemorate the terrorist attack that happened thirteen years ago. A sober thought to take with us.
The airport shuttle bus was up-to-date and very fit for purpose. We were at Barajas within the half hour and since it is a massive airport we had a fair walk for our terminal. I always find this part of the journey tedious and then we were treated to a minor drama. We had stood by a group of men, probably Polish, and when we were at boarding gate E75 two officers of Guardia Civil arrived. Computers were checked and one of this group was singled out and his hold luggage brought up. I smiled when the two officers walked off with him with 'the suspect' walking two paces behind. I think he must have been okay and he and his mates all boarded the flight. We must have lost our slot because it was fifty minutes after our scheduled take off time that we were in the air.
Our transport was a Braemar 190/200 with two seats either side of the aisle. The cabin crew were excellent. A bite to eat, a coffee and the usual vodka and tonic made the journey that much better. Now for Warsaw.
The Federic Chopin Airport was modern. The taxi queue was well regulated and then after a short walk we were with Julia in the apartment.
Bloody marvelous. A day to explore tomorrow.
We had booked the seven am train from Alicante to Madrid on Saturday 11th March and so we had made the decision to overnight in La City Hotel opposite the train station. It was comfortable and convenient.
Alicante was buzzing as we strolled into the Old Town. Bars and restaurants were busy and since the weather was good the seats and tables were packed with eaters, drinkers, talkers and smokers. Michelle found NiC again as she has been here before! She ordered a Lemon Tonic and I ordered a Cinnamon Fresh both with gin and bits and bobs. We sipped our drinks, did our usual people watching and let it all go by us. It is so refreshing to get away. After this peaceful interlude we sat in La Tagliatella and I devoured a Pizza a Pera and Michelle did her best to eat Pumpkin and Ricotta Ravioli. All scrumptious. Since we live in only a small town and are used to 'The Costas' it so good to go to a city.
On our way back to the hotel we passed an Sports Bar - well you just have to go in - and there was a screen showing the Wales v Ireland Six Nations Rugby game at the Millennium Stadium in Cardiff. I just had to go in, watch the game and for me a pint of Spitfire and for her the usual Vodka & Tonic. What a treat and what a game! It was a bruising contest with the winner not obvious until the final few minutes. It was a well done for The Principality. An English referee - Wayne Barnes - was excellent of course.
Saturday morning saw us at the train station at seven and we were in Madrid by 9:35. It was an excellent and comfortable journey in our first class seats. The attendants were both efficient and gorgeous, but the ticket man could do with a more energetic lifestyle! On the way north of Alicante I looked out for our two favourite birding areas of Yecla and then after Almansa the area around Petrola and Bonete and I was pleased to see that there was standing water in the low spots in the corn fields. That bodes well for waders and our visit at the end of the month.
The station is massive with all the platforms modern. They have retained the old roof, planted palms and shrubs where the tracks used to be and with shops and restaurants around it. A water feature held at least two hundred or so terrapins and I hope they were Spain's native ones.
Outside there was a gathering to commemorate the terrorist attack that happened thirteen years ago. A sober thought to take with us.
The airport shuttle bus was up-to-date and very fit for purpose. We were at Barajas within the half hour and since it is a massive airport we had a fair walk for our terminal. I always find this part of the journey tedious and then we were treated to a minor drama. We had stood by a group of men, probably Polish, and when we were at boarding gate E75 two officers of Guardia Civil arrived. Computers were checked and one of this group was singled out and his hold luggage brought up. I smiled when the two officers walked off with him with 'the suspect' walking two paces behind. I think he must have been okay and he and his mates all boarded the flight. We must have lost our slot because it was fifty minutes after our scheduled take off time that we were in the air.
Our transport was a Braemar 190/200 with two seats either side of the aisle. The cabin crew were excellent. A bite to eat, a coffee and the usual vodka and tonic made the journey that much better. Now for Warsaw.
The Federic Chopin Airport was modern. The taxi queue was well regulated and then after a short walk we were with Julia in the apartment.
Bloody marvelous. A day to explore tomorrow.
Thursday, 9 March 2017
Yecla
Before I had left San Miguel De Salinas a Stone Curlew and a Little Owl flew over the road. Later a Kestrel was perched and in Gran Alicant eighteen Glossy Ibis flew over our heads. Usually there is a Blue Rock Thrush to be seen or heard, but not this morning.
In the Estepes de Yecla the wind had dropped, the sun shone and the temperature rose from a chilly eight to thirty-two degrees by the afternoon. We knew that the migration was moving north and we hoped that we would see some of it.
Just before 9am we turned off the A31 at junction 171B signposted for Cuadette and then taking the road heading past our steppes area to ensure that we entered from the direction that we would have normally taken if we had entered from Yecla. This was incredibly good choice as we soon saw Great Spotted Cuckoo (Críalo Europeo) and watched several for some time.
You can hear them before you see them! They were very active as they would be in the process of creating the next generation. At one point we listened to Great Tit, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush and Stone Curlew. The Mistle Thrushes were everywhere and easy to see.
We moved onto our usual route and eventually we heard both Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and saw both, but at a distance and we hoped to do better. Crested Larks were everywhere and we did have very good sightings of Calandra either in flight or in the ground. The growing corn is no more that twelve inches high, but tall enough to conceal some ground birds.
The renovated farm buildings are still home to Lesser Kestrels, Spotless Starlings and Stock Doves. We knew that the Kestrels had been seen recently and we counted four in total.
There was songbirds everywhere and we saw and heard Linnet, Goldfinch, Chaffinch and Blackbird apart from the others previously mentioned. Two Stone Curlew flew nearby. Hoopoes called, flew and perched to be photographed. Almond trees were still in flower just emphasizing the difference in temperature between the coast and here.
Towards the latter part of our journey we had a good view of one Buzzard that eventually perched on rock. There were also Kestrels flying around. Again we saw more Great Spotted Cuckoos and the total for the day was fourteen individuals. What a good haul!
Buzzard In Flight
Later, back in San Miguel, the House Martins had arrived.
There were many absentees and they should all be there later in this month or by April. There is so much to look forward to seeing.
All Photographs by Bryan Thomas Copyright 2017
In the Estepes de Yecla the wind had dropped, the sun shone and the temperature rose from a chilly eight to thirty-two degrees by the afternoon. We knew that the migration was moving north and we hoped that we would see some of it.
Just before 9am we turned off the A31 at junction 171B signposted for Cuadette and then taking the road heading past our steppes area to ensure that we entered from the direction that we would have normally taken if we had entered from Yecla. This was incredibly good choice as we soon saw Great Spotted Cuckoo (Críalo Europeo) and watched several for some time.
You can hear them before you see them! They were very active as they would be in the process of creating the next generation. At one point we listened to Great Tit, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush and Stone Curlew. The Mistle Thrushes were everywhere and easy to see.
We moved onto our usual route and eventually we heard both Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse and saw both, but at a distance and we hoped to do better. Crested Larks were everywhere and we did have very good sightings of Calandra either in flight or in the ground. The growing corn is no more that twelve inches high, but tall enough to conceal some ground birds.
The renovated farm buildings are still home to Lesser Kestrels, Spotless Starlings and Stock Doves. We knew that the Kestrels had been seen recently and we counted four in total.
There was songbirds everywhere and we saw and heard Linnet, Goldfinch, Chaffinch and Blackbird apart from the others previously mentioned. Two Stone Curlew flew nearby. Hoopoes called, flew and perched to be photographed. Almond trees were still in flower just emphasizing the difference in temperature between the coast and here.
Towards the latter part of our journey we had a good view of one Buzzard that eventually perched on rock. There were also Kestrels flying around. Again we saw more Great Spotted Cuckoos and the total for the day was fourteen individuals. What a good haul!
Buzzard In FlightLater, back in San Miguel, the House Martins had arrived.
There were many absentees and they should all be there later in this month or by April. There is so much to look forward to seeing.
All Photographs by Bryan Thomas Copyright 2017
Wednesday, 8 March 2017
San Pedro de la Pinatar
San Pedro de la Pinatar
It has warmed up, the wind has dropped and the afternoons are hot. The area to the beach and the beach yielded only a calling Crested Lark and numerous Yellow-legged Gulls. On the lagoon there were several pairs of Shelduck, but nothing else. There was not one bird on the water and the margins had a ring of something yellow. It was disappointing and worrying.
I moved on and apart from the ubiquitous Black-winged Stilts I saw one Ruff and 12 Black-tailed Godwits. Again there were more pairs of Shelduck, a copious number of Black-headed Gulls and eighteen Black-necked Grebe. Hardly worth the effort, but you never know.... Now Estepas de Yecla in the morning.
It has warmed up, the wind has dropped and the afternoons are hot. The area to the beach and the beach yielded only a calling Crested Lark and numerous Yellow-legged Gulls. On the lagoon there were several pairs of Shelduck, but nothing else. There was not one bird on the water and the margins had a ring of something yellow. It was disappointing and worrying.
I moved on and apart from the ubiquitous Black-winged Stilts I saw one Ruff and 12 Black-tailed Godwits. Again there were more pairs of Shelduck, a copious number of Black-headed Gulls and eighteen Black-necked Grebe. Hardly worth the effort, but you never know.... Now Estepas de Yecla in the morning.
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